Salamis, Famagusta, Northern Cyprus
Just north of Famagusta at the base of the Karpas Peninsula lie the remains of the city of Salamis. The capital of Cyprus as far back as 1100 BC, Salamis survived the successive occupations of the Assyrians, Egyptians, Persians, and Romans but eventually succumbed to the forces of nature.
The site extends over an area of one square mile extending along North Cyprus' coast and inland. Much of the area still awaits excavation and this is forested with mimosa, pine and eucalyptus trees. The finding of important relics and gold coins dating from 411 to 374 BC, was the first genuine evidence of the city's archaeological importance. |
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A severe earthquake destroyed the city in 76 AD, after which the Gymnasium with its colonnaded Palaestra was built by Trajan and Hadrian. This is the most monumental part of the site but columns differ in size because after the second great earthquake of 331 AD, the Christians set up new columns which they dragged from the Roman theatre. The theatre with 50 rows of seats and a seating capacity of 15,000 is the second most spectacular sight. All around the buildings that have been excavated are many niches which contained marble statues, and those that can be seen are headless. When Christianity was adopted as a state religion, all these nude statues were to them an abhorrence, and were thrown into drains or broken up. In fact, any indications of Roman pagan religion such as mosaic pictures were defaced or destroyed.
The Romans had an obsession about baths, and in the Great Hall buildings one can make out the Sudatorium (hot baths), the Caldarium (steam bath) and Frigidarium (cold baths). Before the Christian period (pre 400 AD) it was quite a colourful city; the marble columns were covered with coloured stucco, coloured statues, and numerous polychrome mosaics of which only a few are left. It was during the Christian period that walls with rectangular towers at regular intervals were built, but all that one can see of these today are mounds of sand.
The late Roman period after 400 AD up to about 1100 AD is known as the Byzantine epoch, when the first great Christian churches, called basilicas, were built. The visitors should see the St Epiphanos and Campanopetra, for they are the largest churches in Cyprus. About 674 AD, Arab invasion brought about the destruction of the entire city and the inhabitants fled south to build the medieval town of Famagusta. There must have been a great change in the climate as the city was overwhelmed with sand, and only the tops of the columns peeped above. Coins of the Middle Ages, Lusignan period, were found around the basilicas, from which one can conclude that squatters lived in the ruins; perhaps as late as 1300 AD.
For the next six hundred years the ancient site was looted and regarded as a quarry for building materials. During the Venetian occupation of Famagusta, many columns and pieces of sculpture were taken from the site. The constant looting was not halted until 1952 AD when organised excavations by what is now Northern Cyprus' Department of Antiquities began. The archeological site is the most spectacular in the island because the ruins are very extensive and are mostly in a wonderful state of preservation. For more than a thousand years, the Roman city of Salamis lay buried in sands which saved the site from wanton destruction in the Middle Ages. It must be remembered that all the ancient ruins in Europe were treated as free-for-all quarries for the builders of the medieval castles. It was not until the late 19th century that various governments formed departments of antiquities which began keeping a watchful eye on ruins. In a similar way, Pompeii lay buried in volcanic ash, and was also saved from vandalism. As Pompeii is to Italy, so is Salamis to North Cyprus.
Although much of the city remains buried, undiscovered under the shifting Mediterranean sands, the site is still stunning in its sheer scale and deserving of a visit. The amphitheatre is particularly impressive and as a wonderful tribute to Northern Cyprus' respect for tradition, as it is in use today as a live venue for theatre and concerts. The water is gloriously warm and crystal clear, so with its wealth of treasures, the area is wonderful territory for snorkeling or diving, but care is essential as ocean currents can be quite strong here. Visitors should also bear in mind that, quite understandably, the Northern Cyprus government forbids the removal or disturbance of any items.
Salamis, lying only a few miles from Famagusta, can be easily reached from the hotels in the region. Within easy reach of the Roman remains and the Karpas Peninsula, the Palm Beach Hotel is situated right on one of the best beaches in Northern Cyprus. Although a longer journey, Salamis can easily be reached from Kyrenia for anyone looking to make a day out here and a day trip is included in the programme of tours we offer clients during their holidays.
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